Starting with Duotone

Cyanotype is like a RPG, the more XP you get, the more complex process you will be able to perform. In the Journey of cyanotype, there’s the basic and quite simple blue monochrome, then the toned monochrome, then come the duotone and for very experimented printers, the 3 colors cyanotype. So, even if I’m not a master with monochrome, I get quite consistant result and decided to move to the 3rd level. There’s again a lot to learn on this level, new parameters to take into account and a lot of failure coming up. The first challenge is to get a picture in color. Really, I don’t really have proper color picture. Then you should choose on with not too much red.

Here’s a quick description of the process (the digital processing is done in gimp):

  • Choose your image
  • flip image horizontaly“
  • saturation to 100%
  • separate
    • colors-> components -> decompose

tip :
red is cyan
green is magenta
blue is yellow

  • adjustment of the cyan (red) => then export to one file
    • color -> brightness and contrast -> brightness to 127
    • color -> exposure -> black to 0.1
    • color -> invert
    • file -> export -> image-cyan.jpg
  • then adjust green and yellow before combining and export
    • select the magenta (green)
      • color -> brightness and contrast -> brightness to 127
      • color -> invert
    • select the yellow (blue)
      • color -> brightness and contrast -> brightness to 127
      • color -> invert
    • select both,
      • go to the green one and change mode to addition
      • go to the blue one and change mode to addition
      • file -> export -> image-magenta-yellow.jpg

Now we have two files, we print them on the usual transparency at the size we want to make the print.

Let’s go for the analog part:

  • Size the paper in hot water
  • First layer with a 10%+10% cyanotype
  • Expose double time from what you are used with the monochrome process.
  • Develop in tap water for 5 min.
  • Oxidize with H2O2
  • Then bleach in 1 table spoon of sodium carbonate in 5L of water
    • First dilute in hot water and then add more water to 5L
    • Bleach for 20 min until the blue is gone and only yellow remains.
  • Toning with tonic acid (big spoon) in 2L (dilute in hot water and steer for long time.
  • Then bleach again for 2 min. (I forgot that step)
  • Dry.
  • Second layer in 5%+5% (take 5ml of 10%A+5ml 10%B and add 10ml water)
  • Cast and dry quickly (There seem to be a reaction between the cyanotype solution and the toner)
  • Expose (normal time)
  • Develop in tap water
  • Oxidize with H2O2 (not mandatory, time will do the job)
  • Dry and you’re done.

Here is a first somehow acceptable result.

Memories from last summer

Last summer we visited another part of Indonesia we haven’t had the chance to visit yet. And one good thing about this country, is that a lifetime is not enough to visit entirely. So to Tana Toraja we went. Here are a few pictures I started top process after scanning them. Next step is to go to the darkroom and print them. As usual, the markets are some of the best place to take picture of people.




New toning

I was reading about toning with avocado stones the other day ands decided to give it a go. This is quite a good material to work with. Quite some work to chop it manually, but I don’t want to use the kitchen blender for that. I’ll continue experimenting with that since there are several additives you can use to get different colors.

Untoned Cyanotype

As usual after a pause, back to something 🙂

Simple cyanotypes. Still learning new stuff with the digital post processing. I guess I have understood better how to use the curves now.

Can’t remember the camera I used for the first 3 images. I think this is a 3D printed pinhole, but I can’t be sure. It lacks the usual vignetting of pinhole.

Second picture is printed on sumi-e paper. It works fine with cyanotype and it’s almost like a fabric.

Back to cyanotype

Since there was another hobby which uses too much time, I could not dedicate the time I wanted to photography. Finding the right balance is not always easy and can take some time. Hopefully, this balance has been found and I can enjoy the production of images again. It was never off in my mind, it was just a time issue.

And we can tell a lot of negatives thing about social media, there’s one positive part of it that I don’t want to get rid of. It is the inspiration and the motivation other enthusiasts can give us. It was a simple comment from one of cyanotype make on his process that just trigger the need to go back to the darkroom.

Here’s the result of the first session. Very pleased with the smooth texture and details.

Chiba system

Ok, here we go with a new journey. It is actually a journey that has started many years ago but was paused because of lack of time and so many other things to try out. But when I saw on the chiba system FB group a new method, it was the sparkle to ignite a new cycle in my practice of alternative photography. So instead of using jelly, this guy used fish glue. The main advantage is that is works at room temperature, you don’t need to maintain the solution at 40°C. This really speed up the process, and give pleasant results. I’ll detail the process (based on Charles Guerin‘s document) in another post later on. In the mean time let’s look at the first multi layer picture I managed to get. It is from a 4×5 negative on Canson Montval paper.